Presentasi diri karya perancang busana etnik Indonesia di Instagram

Saputra, Vicky Dwi (2018) Presentasi diri karya perancang busana etnik Indonesia di Instagram. Masters thesis, Universitas Pelita Harapan.

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Abstract

Social media plays a prominent role in the development of ethnic clothing in Indonesia. The existence of social media has been becoming a source of fashion inspiration and an effective promotion channel for fashion designers creation. Instagram is one of the platforms to showcase fashion designer's works as well as a medium for their self-presentation. Ethnic fashion designers formed a virtual identity as a result of the self-impression management. However, the constructed self-concept does not reflect the real state, as it actually made from a selfconstruction process which tends to be manipulative in the virtual world. This research used a qualitative approach and a research method of content analysis and semiotics technique from Roland Barthes's two level of meaning. In the first level, the signs (signifier and signified) combine to form a signifier in the second level, then in the next level, signifier and signified will form a new signifier which is an extension of meaning. The data is collected using primary data, i.e., observation of the Instagram accounts of Didiet Maulana, Anne Avantie, and Lulu Lutfi Labibi; and the secondary data in the form of literature study and documentation related to the research. The research results show that the self-presentation of ethnic fashion designers is presented in a narcissistic, glamoristic, and humanistic way. Narcissism is the way fashion designers display their self-figures dominantly, through the management of impressions in order to get rewards and selfsatisfaction. Glamoristic interpreted as a way of glorifying luxury, and it is identical with hedonism. Humanistic construed as a way to appreciate the nature of human beings as being equal, rational, free and open. The research reveals that there are motives of destigmatization in every effort of Indonesian ethnic clothing designers in presenting their self-presentation on Instagram. / Media sosial berperan penting dalam perkembangan busana etnik Indonesia. Keberadaan media sosial menjadi sumber inspirasi fashion hingga saluran promosi efektif atas karya perancang busana. Instagram merupakan salah satu platform yang dimanfaatkan untuk memperlihatkan karya sekaligus sarana menampilkan presentasi diri. Perancang busana etnik kemudian membentuk identitas virtual sebagai hasil pengelolaan impresi diri. Makna diri yang terbentuk tidak mencerminkan keadaan yang sesungguhnya karena lahir dari proses konstruksi diri yang cenderung manipulatif dalam ruang virtual. Penelitian ini menggunakan pendekatan kualitatif dengan metode penelitian analisis isi dan teknik semiotika dari Roland Barthes dengan pemaknaan dua tahap. Tanda (penanda dan petanda) pada tahap pertama dan menyatu sehingga dapat membentuk penanda pada tahap kedua, kemudian pada tahap berikutnya penanda dan petanda dapat membentuk petanda baru yang merupakan perluasan makna. Pengumpulan data penelitian dilakukan dengan data primer, yaitu observasi akun Instagram Didiet Maulana, Anne Avantie dan Lulu Lutfi Labibi, serta data sekunder berupa studi kepustakaan dan dokumentasi yang terkait dengan penelitian. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa presentasi diri karya perancang busana etnik ditampilkan dengan cara narsistik, glamoristik dan humanistik. Narsistik merupakan cara perancang busana menampilkan sosok diri secara dominan melalui pengelolaan impresi agar menuai penghargaan dan kepuasan atas diri. Glamoristik dimaknai sebagai cara mengagungkan kemewahan dan identik dengan hedonisme. Humanistik dimaknai sebagai cara menghargai hakikat manusia sebagai makhluk yang setara, rasional, bebas dan terbuka. Penelitian mengungkap adanya motif destigmatisasi dalam setiap upaya menampilkan presentasi diri karya perancang busana etnik Indonesia di Instagram.

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