The representation of androgyny in Darell Ferhostan as seen in Yohji Yamamoto’s instagram

Jiady, Evania (2018) The representation of androgyny in Darell Ferhostan as seen in Yohji Yamamoto’s instagram. Bachelor thesis, Universitas Pelita Harapan.

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Abstract

Fashion has become an integral part in society’s life, it helps people to indicate the gender identity and their gender roles of others. However, since the very beginning, society only recognizes two binary genders in which are masculine and feminine as well as man and woman. Other performed gender is considered abnormal and not accepted by the society. Since fashion is a subtle yet a powerful communication tool for humans, through the agents of fashion such as fashion designer and fashion models, androgyny has made its way to be the world’s trend today. Darell Ferhostan is the first androgyny model from Indonesia that goes international and has been featured with many designer’s works, including Yohji Yamamoto’s. By analyzing the photos of Darell Ferhostan featured with the design of Yohji Yamamoto through Peirce’s semiotics analysis, the researcher finds out that being a male androgyny creates two kinds of identities, such as a ‘powerful’ woman and a ‘powerless’ man. The researcher also finds that among many signs, the body is actually the main focus of the frame to signify which traits are shown the most, masculine or feminine. The result of the research reveals how androgyny is represented in Darell Ferhostan as seen in Yohji Yamamoto’s Instagram. / Fashion merupakan hal yang penting di kehidupan setiap orang, ini membantu orang lain untuk mengindikasikan identitas sebuah jender dan peran jender masing-masing orang. Akan tetapi, sejak dari awal, masyarakat hanya mengetahui jender dalam bentuk binari, yakni maskulin dan feminin serta wanita dan pria. Jender yang di luar daripada itu dianggap tidak normal dan tidak diterima oleh masyarakat. Karena fashion merupakan media komunikasi yang sangat lembut namun sangat kuat efeknya bagi manusia, melalui agen fashion seperti perancang busana dan model busana, androgini dewasa ini telah banyak terdengar bahkan banyak diadaptasi oleh khalayak banyak. Darell Ferhostan merupakan model androgini pertama dari Indonesia yang telah melebarkan sayapnya ke kancah internasional, dan telah banyak berkolaborasi dengan desainer papan atas, termasuk salah satunya Yohji Yamamoto. Dengan menganalisa foto-foto Darell Ferhostan yang terdapat di Instagram Yohji Yamamoto dengan menggunakan Analisa semiotika Peirce, peneliti menemukan bahwa menjadi model pria androgini membentuk dua tipe identitas yakni wanita yang ‘kuat’ serta pria yang ‘lemah’. Selain itu, dari sekian banyak tanda-tanda yang dapat diamati untuk mengidentifikasi androgini, tubuh merupakan tanda yang paling dominan. Hasil daripada penelitian ini memperlihatkan bagaimana androgini terrepresentasikan pada Darell Ferhostan seperti yang terlihat di Instagram Yohji Yamamoto.

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